Tips for Foreign Women

A blog reader has asked for tips for women considering a visit to Fes.

The first this I should tell you is I feel very safe here but I do take precautions. I don’t go out late at night unescorted. I don’t speak to people I don’t recognize. I dress modestly. And I always try to appear purposeful when going from here to there.

That said, there are some things that take getting used to. Like being stared at. At first it really bothered me the way people would follow you with their eyes and don’t even attempt to hide the fact that they were staring at you. Now I just pretend I am someone famous to whom this happens routinely -- so I basically ignore it.

The other thing is you must understand is, as a tourist, it is unlikely you will pay the real price for something. This is not 100% true but it is common to be charged a different price from a Moroccan. Even when I shop with a Moroccan who bargains on my behalf, my benefactors are criticized for ‘taking my side’. Most people will assume you have a lot of money because you are a foreigner and will quote prices accordingly. But once you frequent a shop for a while, I have found the shop owners are courteous and fair. When someone overcharges me, I simply take my business elsewhere.

Young women are subject to a lot of harassment -- mostly from teenaged boys. The boys can get away with more than their adult counterparts for they are too young to be arrested. So, they can be very bold and rude and relentless. They will follow you for a long time and if you don’t respond, you may be subject to some harsh words. I’m not even sure they fully understand what they are saying half the time. But for every obnoxious experience, a heartwarming one seems to follow. Most of the people in Fes are helpful and hospitable. It’s just a matter of separating the wheat from the chaff.

If you dress in a provocative way, you are opening yourself up to harassment and ridicule. Dressing in a modest way is less problematic in the winter when one must bundle up to be protected from the elements. But summer is a different story. I always find it incredibly challenging to find something appropriate and conservative to wear in the sweltering summer months. A light linen scarf draped over the shoulders can do the trick nicely.

Marriage proposals are made with some regularity. Taxi drivers routinely chat you up on your way from here to there. During that time you will be asked if you are married. You can save yourself a lot of hassle by referring to a husband throughout the conversation. Unless, of course, you are looking for a husband. If so, you will find a lot of interest. It will be up to you to ascertain their motives.

Finally, I believe the truly valuable tip holds true for anyone visiting any foreign country. Leave your judgments at home and keep your mind, heart and eyes wide open. Be aware without being overly wary.